Sustenance

Sustenance

My two cats have very different eating habits. Ben (or Big Boy, as I call him) weighs fifteen pounds and will eat just about anything I put in front of him. Shiva (aka Little Man) weighs all of 11 pounds soaking wet and after a good meal. I worry about his weight because when you pick him up and he feels like he’s all bones and skin.

Kashgar morning, before market (1998) Photo (c) Karen Abrahamson
Kashgar morning, before market (1998) Photo (c) Karen Abrahamson

For Shiva it has to be the right food, at the right temperature, at the right age out of the tin, and (I swear) out of the right part of tin, or he won’t eat it. These days it’s venison – yes, venison. Nothing but the best for Shiva, dear. He’s the one who, when given a bowl of kibble with a mixture of the kind he really likes and the kind he tolerates but needs to eat, will, of course, fish the favored kibble out of the bowl and then turn up his nose at the rest. Blasted cats.

Now, while this illustration is indicative of the types of personalities of these boys, it is also a wonderful metaphor for something important in writing, which is feeding ourselves. No, I’m not talking about how some writers can plough through a mountain of food, or how some writers who shall remain nameless will not eat anything green, or anything that has passed within ten miles of a vegetable. No, I am talking about feeding our souls.

The writer’s soul (aka the wily muse) is a creature that requires constant feeding of the kinds of things that make you want to write. For some it’s the anger at some injustice in the world. For some it’s the inspiration of music. For me, the inspiration is travel and other cultures.

I was just reminded by a friend that people might want to know more about my travels in other places, like western China or Northern India. Let me tell you about one such event. It involves food, or at least tea, and is the type of experience that feeds my writing.

Apothecary, Kashgar (1998) Photo (c) Karen Abrahamson
Apothecary, Kashgar (1998) Photo (c) Karen Abrahamson

When, in 1998, I visited Kashgar, the westernmost city of China and an ancient Silk Road caravanserai, the railway from eastern China had not yet been completed and so ancient Kashgar still remained relatively untouched, though the Chinese were moving in, in droves. At the time I befriended a Uigher gentleman (the local, Muslim, Turkic people) and my travelling companion and I spent time with him talking. One evening, after he had learned that I might be interested in a Uigher carpet, he invited my travelling companion and I back to his rooftop home.

When I say rooftop, I mean rooftop. He had a small mud shack at the side of the roof on the top of a flat-topped mud-daub house, and his ‘house’ had interior furnishings that were only bits of cardboard. The rooftop itself was pink adobe that apparently you could fall through during the infrequent rains the oasis town experienced. So there we were, the three of us sitting on his rooftop in the ancient town of Kashgar under a pink evening sky with the distant aspen golden on the hills leading up to the Karakoram pass of the Himalaya Mountains and the smell of bread baking and roasting goat’s heads wafting up from the street. So we sipped bitter tea and talked of the Uigher ‘situation’ (see my travel page on China) and I looked at his rugs. None were outstanding, but one charmed me and my Uigher friend told me how he was trying to earn enough money so that he could get married.

So I bought the rug. I handed over cold hard American cash and my address and the next morning I climbed on the bus to leave town with the foolish realization that I’d probably never see my cash or the rug again.

Imagine my surprise when six weeks later I arrived home and the rug had beaten me there.

The experience left me with a very soft spot for this Muslim man who proved so honest. It also fueled the feelings that led to the writing of Ashes and Light when I read about how the Chinese government used the 911 ‘Muslim crisis’ to round up and execute Uigher men when they rioted over the destructions of their homes.

So just as with Ben and Shiva there are different ways of feeding our souls and so, when the rest of life can suck us dry, we need to undertake those things that fill us up.

The memory of sitting on that rooftop, of my Uigher friend’s utter lack of anything the west would consider household belongings, but his total honesty in the face of being handed a fist-full of American dollars, touched me far more than music or other forms of inspiration ever will. It’s those cross cultural encounters that feed my soul and my muse.

And the fact that my friend may no longer be alive.

Uigher men, Kashgar, (1998) Photo (c) Karen Abrahamson
Uigher men, Kashgar, (1998) Photo (c) Karen Abrahamson

8 Replies to “Sustenance”

  1. I lived briefly in Iran when I was 6, and the daughter of one of the hotel maids and I tried so hard to communicate. She was maybe 9 or 10. I loved to read, and I remember putting my hand on a book and repeating “Book!”, and she taught me how to write 1-5 in Farsi.

    I think of her, too, and wonder how she is…

    1. I have memories of people like that, too. The forgotten ones we leave behind. Moving as much as I have, sometimes I think that leaving the people has been like leaving breadcrumbs behind me. Unfortunatley life pulls all of us along and people are swept away and so I can never find my way back again. Sort of like the saying ‘you can never go home’….

  2. Straight to the heart, Karen. Really powerful. I remember sitting at a small outdoor cafe in Macedonia with a truly charming group of younger people (18-25), I was all of 35 at the time. “There will be war here within a year,” one of them said calmly in un-accented American English he had learned mostly on CNN. It was hard to credit such a statement sitting in the old heart of a city in the midst of vast rolling farmlands. A year later, as troops and Albanian refugees rolled across the landscape, barely noticed by western news, I was left to wonder about the friends I made on that sunny afternoon a decade and a half ago. Had they survived the Yugoslav War only to be killed in one that never even had a name? What of the 20-year old beauty with eyes and a face I can still see so clearly, who, though she spoke no English, had managed to ask me if I couldn’t somehow take her and, if possible please, her friends as well, to that land of magical opportunity called, “America!”

    Here in the West we live such gifted lives, it astonishes me again and again, and it fills my soul so full I can only find an outlet on the written page.

    1. It was a strange experience writing this post. It started all bouncy and by the time I was done, I was very sad looking at the faces of the people. I recently read a newspaper article that said that the old parts of Kashgar are being torn down, just like they are in Beijing. The Chinese government is determined to establish their presence in this very oil and mineral rich part of the country. I’m currently reading books on Peru and they talk about how the Inca would conquer another people and would move the indigenous population en mass and would subsume the native religion into their own to maintain their legitimacy. There’s a lot similar happening today except the Mosque in Kashgar is silent. The government decreed they could not give their call to prayer. And now I’ve stepped perilously close to political comment territory….

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